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Thread: High or Low Mileage 150cdti?

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    Default High or Low Mileage 150cdti?

    Hi Chaps,

    Just signed up, appologies if this has been covered before.

    I am a self employed engineer who does a lot of driving, in that last few years i have added 140k to my current vehicle a Transit Connect van. The van now has 160k on it, still feels as good as the day i collected it but i really want something newer with less miles and more creature comforts.

    Basically i weighed it down to a 150 Vectra, ideally an elite.

    Now my question. I am not scared of driving a high mileage vehicle thats been well maintained and spent its life on the motorway, but i know little about the 150 CDTI engine.

    Given the choice would you take a low mileage or a high mileage? Im talking about 100-120k miles. I will be adding another 100k over the next few years. What are the major problems? I know i can probably search the FAQ's but would appreciate it if some owners could post real experiences running these cars on a daily work basis and piling the miles on!

    These cars seem incredible value for money, i am just wondering where the catch is with the lower priced vectra's with higher than average miles?

    Many Thanks,

    Ash.

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    Regular Member byebyeitsagsi's Avatar
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    If your looking for something thats a little more comfy what about an astra van? The sportive comes with an xp kit nice alloys and the same 150 bhp CDTI.

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    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    Although you've stated high mileages, what is your typical annual mileage (average over the last three years)

    If you buy a car already at high mileage
    It will be cheaper to buy
    Very likely to get a warranty up to 3 months from a sales outlet, OE warranty probably expired, very unlikely to get a third party warranty
    Expect sudden breakdowns and asociated high maintenance costs; consequential loss of work

    If you buy a car with low mileage
    It will be more expensive to buy
    Very likely to get a warranty up to 12 months from a sales outlet, balance of OE warranty may apply, possibility of extension with a third party warranty
    Reliability should not be an issue until the car is 3 years old

    As I need a reliable car, I always buy something which has not yet had its first service or it is due (and if due get the sales outlet to include it)
    Yes, the purchase cost is higher but the car usually includes a warranty that meets my requirements
    At the end of three years I then review the ownership annually, if the maintenance costs are higher than a new car, then it is dumped and any residual value is a benefit

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    Regular Member Craig1985's Avatar
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    I have a 1.9cdti 150 with 80k and I'm the only owner from new and I've had my fair share or problems. Dual mass flywheel, egr, and inlet/swirl problems. I would almost bet money on it you will suffer one of these and they ain't cheap fixes.

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    Regular Member mozzer99's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Craig1985 View Post
    I have a 1.9cdti 150 with 80k and I'm the only owner from new and I've had my fair share or problems. Dual mass flywheel, egr, and inlet/swirl problems. I would almost bet money on it you will suffer one of these and they ain't cheap fixes.
    I agree, I personally know 5 of these cars from 14k to 145K miles.
    Seems 80k can be about it for the DMF on a 150, lucky if you get over 100k without needing one. Budget up to £1k for this and clutch to be renewed.
    The swirl flaps seem to go at about the same time on early models, later ones with modified manifolds go well beyond 80k miles (£500 +).

    Before you think this is a Vauxhall only problem, the engine is made in Italy (Alpha Romeo factory) or Germany (GM factory). The parts that let it down are German surprisingly. The DMF is common to most modern cars (Ford/VW/Audi/Skoda/BMW/Toyota etc and they have the same failures) and can last the life of the car, so long as the power is only 100-110 bhp. At 130-150 bhp life is shortened as above.

    EGR's are easy to replace (can be cleaned) DIY at £100.
    A cambelt and water pump is also needed at approx 80k (book is 100k).
    Expect £300 max approx for that.

    The 6 speed gearbox gets notchy over 100k but seem fine long term. The engines themselves seem very tough.

    So armed with this I would ensure I bought one where the manifold was in good condition (you can tell just by looking at it) and there is evidence of a DMF change and cambelt. If not walk away and find one that has! (wish I knew this when I bought mine!)

    I would go for one with this history over a lower miles one without (unless it was very low miles).

    The plus side is a large comfortable car, 150bhp, great long distance cruiser and easy 50mpg on a run - hard to beat
    Last edited by mozzer99; 5th December 2010 at 15:05.

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