Dont know if this is the right place to put this, as im fairly new here, but i guess someone will move it if its not.!
I Just wanted to post some notes that i hope may save some hassle for someone else if like me you decide to change the inlet manifold yourself rather than pay £1000 for vx to do it. The fault of worn leaking swirl valves is well documented on here and thanks to all who have submitted information as i found it very valuable and very helpful during this task.
My SRi cdti has covered 117,000 mainly hassle free miles until it started stuttering at small throttle openings and emitting large quantities of black smoke mainly accelerating away from slow corners and roundabouts.
Long an short of it , the swirl vane rod was off, lots of blank gunk around the valves,but the actuator was still working (watch no 3 valve (3rd from the left looking from front of car) whilst revving the car, if it moves your actuator still works and is not seized).
I managed to source a new (modified) inlet manifold from e bay(vauxhall parts warehouse for £159 including a gasket. A masive saving over VX, good service and very quick delivery). I live in the north of scotland so delivery can be an issue for some firms heavens knows why as its on all main rail and air postal routes, but not these guys, £ 6.00 for what turned out to be 2 day service. I can honestly recomend these people.
Anyway armed with my trusty haynes book of lies and new parts, the job was attempted on my drive with no jack, no special tools, and on my own!!
The haynes is actually quite reliable for this job although i have noted down a few points below that i hope will be useful, i followed the haynes procedure quite closely so everything below refers to that,
1. Its easier to take off the vaccuum box off, rather than try to find and remove the bolt that holds the mounting plate its on, with it still in place. Once the box is off (a nut at the top and bottom) you can get your hand in below the oil seperator to undo the bolt.
2. You dont need to take off the timing belt to do this job. if you use two bolts from the timing cover (once its been removed) and line up the two unthreaded holes in the fuel pump gear with two threaded holes in the casing you can hold it in position whilst you take the pump off. Saves alot of hassle or it would normally, but not in my case!!
3. The problem i encountered was that i spotted that the gear wheel itself was cracked through the woodruff key slot and up through the adjacent web!! It was a very small crack but it had meant that the gear was very lose on the pump shaft, i could pull it off with ease and without a puller(once the retaining nut was removed of course). I dont know whether this is a common fault (cant find a mention of it on here anywhere) but its a scary one nonetheless, failure of this pulley would without doubt trash the entire engine. See picture below. It's worth having a good look at the gear wheel if you do this job as it was only by luck i spotted this as i was adjusting my work light, cant say if it would have gone on to fail but the timing belt wasnt due replacement for another 65,000 miles!! so it wouldnt have been looked at till then.
4. Arm yourself with about 6 of each of jubilee clips size 000 and size
0x as the VX original items are near impossible to get back on once you have taken them off.
5. You dont need to drain the coolant like it says either. when the inlet manifold comes off you do get about 1/2 a pint that comes out of the gallery in the top left of the block as you look at it but its not alot. the only thing you need to watch is that you mop any out of the inlet in the cylinder head if any goes in there. Also you dont need to bleed the system when you rebuild either as it does it itself once the engine is running. 1 other good tip is to make sure you put the coolant pipe and jubilee clip on to the inlet manifold stub before you put the fuel pump back in, as you cant get in to tighten it up when the pump is on. I found out the hard way and had to take the manifold and pump back off!!
6. I re-used the fuel pump to common rail fuel pipe as well after giving it a good clean and checking the threads were ok. Haynes says to replace it but it looked perfectly serviceable to me so I re-fitted it. No leaks on start so proved its not necessary. Also the fuel pump is self bleeding too so dont worry about bleeding that either.
7 I noticed there is some debate on here about whether to replace the swirl vane actuator when you repalce the inlet manifold as they are matched. Well i did not replace it,( i just made sure it wasnt seized and moved full range by moving it manually but do it slowly as its geared), After a 200 mile drive today after rebuild, i can report that it works fine and the car is back to its old self. Im not saying you shouldnt change it but its an expensive piece and i dont really see the need to.
8. I also checked the soldering on the circuit board on the main throttle body(theres a thread on here about it) and mine was cracked exactly as shown in the pictures on that thread, thanks whoever discovered that one. Resoldered as suggested and all worked fine.
Well thats about it, it looks a bit of a daunting job when you first look at where this things fitted but if you follow haynes and apply some common sense you can do it in a day like i did, on my drive, on my own. Make sure you have some of those torx bits and a magnet if like me you drop things!!
I guess all in all its cost me £250 but that includes having to take it to a garage to have the pulley changed as i dont have a jack to lift the engine to remove the timing belt to change it.
So all in all use the info on this site, it really is a godsend and again i thank all who contribute here, you really are appreciated, but have a go, it saved me a good deal of cash and wasnt really that difficult, awkward yes but very achievable especially if there are two of you.
Thanks for reading this far and i hope that if you do have a go this is of some use.