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Thread: Calling all DPF geeks!!

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    Default Calling all DPF geeks!!

    Few questions before I do something drastic!!

    What would cause my DPF not to clean/re-gen itself??

    Why, if the regen cycle is based on saturation levels, is it not performing a regen, before going into limp mode??

    If the constant blockages are caused by some other engine malfunction, ie, over fuelling then surely it should just be performing a re-gen more often, to compensate for the over fuelling, and getting rid of the soot build up.

    So far I have drilled and cleaned EGR, cleaned boost sensor and replaced inlet manifold. I have heard that a faulty injector could be to blame but is there any D.I.Y way of checking the injectors??

    Also, could the throttle body being gunked up be causing over fuelling, and would a strip down and clean be worthwhile??

    Any advice would be great, cheers

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    Vehicle : CDTI 150

    Trim : Design

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2005

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    For the regen to work the engine needs to be hot and run at higher revs.
    If your travelling at 60 in 6th or doing short runs the DPF will just foul up. Try getting the engine to normal temp then spending about 10 mins with the revs at 3 - 4k.

    TBH once the lights on its best to get a forced regen, find someone with Tech 2 or OP Com nearby.

    DPFs need a low ash oil in the engine and dont like supermarket fuel.

    Fueling in a modern diesel is controlled by the ECU opening the injector for a specific time dependent upon engine demand against temperature and air mass. The throttle body is used more to restrict airflow when the EGR is being used and shut off the engine.

    Only real DIY check for injectors is a leak off check. A proper test requires highly specialised kit as the fuel is sprayed at a very high pressure.

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    Smash the insides out and crimp the front sensor job done worked for me lol

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    Default

    Thanks a lot for the info people!!

    To be honest Igtuk, thats the road i'm going down but I was thinking of drilling a hole through the middle first, before butchering it altogether!!

    When you say crimp the front sensor, do you mean the 1st of the two, ie, the one nearest to the engine??

    And which end needs crimping?? I assume it would be the end that terminates under the bonnet? Is it the smaller diameter of the two??

    But would crimping it not give the impression of a blockage??

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    Also Igtuk, I heard that by doing what you did, you will get more power and increased MPG , is there any truth in this??

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    Will hav to check as it's been a while since I did it but sure it's the front sensor closest to the engine as you need to fool the engine there is grater pressure at the front than the rear of the dpf it will not throw a wobbly as there is still pressure reaching the back sensor, then use opcom/tech2 to reset the saturation.

    As for power and mpg it comes on boost alot sooner and revs alot quicker as you've took a massive restriction out of the exhaust and mpg I get 60mpg if I drive properly before I could only get low 50s.

    Well worth doing I had regen after regen worked for 100 miles back to square one also tried steam clean an costic soda same as ****ty regen 100 miles and blocked when you get to that stage you may aswel try it before digging well deep in the pocket for a new dpf.

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    DPF had only one sensor on my last 2006 zafira cdti 120. It was in the dpf and it was also two pipes on the upper side of the dpf. Is it the sensor in the dpf you had crimp? ANd wat is crimping? Does the engine not regen after this mod?

    On the zafira I got Medusa to remove dpf when I remap. It was ok.

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    Yes the two pipes are pressure sensors crimp block clamp all the same really don't touch the single sensor.

    As for the regen it shouldn't do one as there is no blockage but I have herd of a program running in the background like some sort of count down which causes a regen even with no blockage but don't know if this is true as I have done well over 2000 miles with no regen and if it does play up I got a cheap opcom to reset the counter.

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    Vehicle : CDTI 150

    Trim : Design

    Engine : Z19DTH

    Year : 2005

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    Cant understand why you had to regen so often!!
    Do you use Vx oil? Cheap 5W30 fully synthetic will cause issues if its not low ash.
    Not advisable just to 'reset the counter', you get a warning as the blocked DPF restricts exhaust gas flow which can cause engine damage.

    Agree that its better to make the DPF 'free flow'

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    Lesj, when you say you get a warning, please could you let me know what kind of warning because the first warning I get of my DPF being blocked is the car/spanner light and limp mode. I am also having to have forced re-gens via tech 2 approx every four weeks.

    I have only ever used mobil one or magnatec fully synth oil, which ain't the cheapest.

    Anyway, the garage that I use have an old blocked DPF so they are going to drill/knock insides out and fit it to my car and let me drive it for a week to see if it will work ok before butchering mine!!

    I doubt my ecu is even initiating re-gens so it should not be a problem!!
    If it was performing re-gens then surely the DPF would not get blocked after a few hundred miles!!

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