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Thread: Central Heating Help

  1. #1
    Regular Member Exclusive BV's Avatar
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    Default Central Heating Help

    I noted with interest that there were a few central heating engineers on the site and I was wondering if any of you could give me some advice.

    I have a worcester combi 28 cdi and 10 radiators in my 3 bed semi.

    I have a problem with the big double rad in the front room. It only gets hot at the top and the bottom is cool so it's probably sludged up.

    Ideally I would like a powerflush but there are two things stopping me.

    1. I got quoted £400 from a local firm.
    2. The other rads seem fine.

    The way I see it, there are two possible options.

    Either....

    A) Take the double rad off the wall and blast the rubbish out

    or

    B) Use Sentinel x.400 in the system for a few weeks followed by a flush and then refill with x.100 rust inhibitor.

    What do you guys think is best?

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    Regular Member Keithy's Avatar
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    I would take it off the wall and try flushing it yourself. I haven't ever used any of the chemicals so i wouldn't like to say if they are any good

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    i would take it off and flush it out not a very hard job to do . khalid

    . irmy door pins, pedals,chrome /elec folding mirrors covers.parking sensors/ window tints all round.blue led dash conversion.debaged /k+n filter twin mij cat back exhaust . xp front spoiler and irmy boot spoiler .b8,s and H+ R springs. afl, headlights

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    do not use any chemicals!! your boiler will start to leak within hours it will attack o rings etc, take rad of wall and flush out while its of flush each leg valve open into a bucket with filling loop fully open, power flushing is a waste of money

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    Sorry to hijack your thread but do any of u central heating boffins do exercisms on boilers cos my central heating has decided to turn itself on even though its switched off at the timer and the thermostat is on 0 its still on

    I've turned it off at the boiler but thats only a temporary fix

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    Regular Member Das's Avatar
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    Flushing them out is a piece of pee pee tbh, did all mine myself last year.

    The Wife's just off the phone to Scottish Gas as our boiler has stopped working tonight, thank heavens for their home care plan, their coming out tomorrow.

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    Default

    Remove the rad and flush it.

    It may be that other rads need turning down to balance the system so you get good flow through all rads.

    I would also flush the main circuit by opening the rad feeds and letting some water drain off. A garden hose works, and a standard exterior tap screw fitting fits the rad fitting - enabling the hose to be run out to an external drain. You will be surprised how much black gunky water will come out if you don't have inhibitor in the system and it's been left a few years....

    Then refit the rad and bleed.


    Maybe flushing all the downstairs rads would be good idea.


    How long do other rads take to warm up? Is the de-aerator blocked up?


    When we moved into our current house, it was clear that the CH system had been ignored and neglected for a few years. A few bangs on the de-aerator dislogded a lot of carp which then went into the circulating water. I flushed all the downstairs rads and the circuit and refilled. Now working better than it's ever done.

  8. #8
    Regular Member Exclusive BV's Avatar
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    Default

    thanks very much for the replies, Where can I find the de-aerator?

    I am now leaning towards removing all downstairs rads and flushing out as the ones upstairs tend to be much hotter.

    Also I have two downstairs rads with drain valves fitted, I have one in the kitchen and one in the hallway. When I drain the system do I open both?

    Any CH Engineers care to write me a how to?

    I know there's probably not a lot to go wrong but how many times should I refill and drain the system afterwards before I put in the rust inhibitor?

  9. #9
    Regular Member Das's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Exclusive BV View Post

    Also I have two downstairs rads with drain valves fitted, I have one in the kitchen and one in the hallway. When I drain the system do I open both?
    Open the one that is the lowest, then open the bleed valve on the highest radiator in the house(often the bathroom). You need to open the bleed valve to release the vacuum to allow the water to flow.

    Quote Originally Posted by Exclusive BV View Post

    I know there's probably not a lot to go wrong but how many times should I refill and drain the system afterwards before I put in the rust inhibitor?
    Id just refill and empty(and repeat) it untill its runs clear.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DasArab View Post
    Open the one that is the lowest,
    There is not much to seperate them tbh, both valves are about 1.5 inches from the floor.

    So let me get this right in my head.

    1. Fit hosepipe to lowest downstairs rad and open valve
    2. Open bleed valve on highest upstairs rad (to equalise pressure I presume)
    3. Drain system
    4. Remove affected rads, blast clean and refit
    5. Refill system and drain until clear
    6. Fill to manufacturers settings and load up with inhibitor

    Is this right?

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