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Thread: Fitting Parrot CK3100 bluetooth car kit to VDA connector

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    Question Fitting Parrot CK3100 bluetooth car kit to VDA connector

    I've been searching around prior to fitting my new Parrot CK3100 to my Vectra 2003 which has the CCR2006 stereo and VDA car phone connector.

    I bought the SOT-109 lead and assume that I just connect it together and that no adjustments to the wiring are required but I'd quite like someone who has done this to confirm that this is correct before I damage something.

    My main concern is around feeding the Parrot's amplified audio output into the phone input on the stereo. Normally this is connected directly to the speakers via a 3-way adaptor cable that connects inbetween the stereo and the main power/speaker wiring connector as most cars don't have the dedicated car phone VDA connector.

    The options I can see are:
    1. Connect the cables up without altering anything.
    2. As above but with the reducing transformer that was supplied with the SOT-109 fitted into the audio cables of the SOT-109 to reduce the power going into the VDA connector.
    3. Connect the Parrot's line-out into the VDA connector instead of it's amplified lineout.

    I am guessing the top one may be the right one but I'm not sure. I have heard that the reducing transformer is only required for other GM cars with the VDA connector - Omegas and Sabbs were mentioned - maybe something to do with external amplifiers?

    Thanks.

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    Regular Member kenp's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra C


    Engine : 2.2 Direct

    Year : 2004

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    1: correct, only swap over the red/orange wire, and then add mute wire.

    Nothing else..

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenp View Post
    1: correct, only swap over the red/orange wire, and then add mute wire.

    Nothing else..
    Thanks for the info. So option 1 with no reducing transformer required and no need to use the line outputs it is then. So it should be a doddle for me to finally get in the car at the weekend then . Famous last words .

    I have noted about the power connectors - it's easy enough to trace these through as I know the VDA connector pins and the Parrot cable colours and then to reverse them using the fuse connectors as you say.

    I'm guessing I use the mute lead that comes out of the Parrot's audio relay box rather than one of the 3 in the power cable. Do you know if that is right?

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    Regular Member kenp's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra C


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    think thats how i did mine... and then to the VDA plug also..

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenp View Post
    think thats how i did mine... and then to the VDA plug also..
    Thanks again.

    That confirms what I thought in terms of connecting the bare mute wire from the Parrot kit to the bare mute wire on the SOT-109 (shown at the bottom left of the picture below with a red crimp connector).

    Just one more question - did you get the reducing transformer with your SOT-109 cable (shown in the centre right of the picture below, with the connectors it plugs inbetween shown at the top centre of the picture)?

    The reason I ask is that the part number of the cable I got is actually SOT-109-A and I am wondering how this version of the cable is modified from the original SOT-109.


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    Regular Member kenp's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra C


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    I did get it.. never used it... as i didnt know what its for... no problems here..

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    Quote Originally Posted by kenp View Post
    I did get it.. never used it... as i didnt know what its for... no problems here..
    Thanks very much - I'm all ready to go now once the has stopped.

    A bit more research indicates that the thing in the black shrink-wrap is a reducing transformer and is used if the car is fitted with an external amplifier so that you don't feed the amplified output from the car kit into the external amplifier. You use the reducing transformer if you have an external amplifier and it reduces the voltage to a much lower level. I think that this mostly affects Saabs and Omegas because they had an factory-fit external amplifier available on some models.

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    Well, it didn't rain on Saturday so I got the installation done then.

    The only thing left to do is decide on a final position for the screen as I put it to the bottom right of the stereo but I keep hitting it with my knee. I may move it to the other side of the stereo or mount in on the Brodit clip (from the old Nokia CARK-91) that fits on the left side of the centre console level with the heater controls.

    I mounted the control unit behind the heater control panel. It's not fixed down yet but that's easy to do at the same time as I move the screen to it's new position.

    One thing to point out to anyone who reads this is that feeding the cable from the microphone down the A-pillars can interfere with the curtain airbags if you feed the cable down the rear of the pillars nearest to the front doors. You need to either take the pillar trim off and tape the cable to the front of the curtain airbag (which is what I did) or push it under the front of the trim next to the windscreen if you don't want to take the trim off.

    The only slight annoying thing is the stereo's delay in switching to the phone input which means that the first second or two of each spoken menu command is missed off - e.g. 'settings' becomes 'tings'.

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