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Thread: V6 CDTi EGR Valves - How can I replace it myself?

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    Default V6 CDTi EGR Valves - How can I replace it myself?

    Hi, my 55 plate V6 CDTi (Z30DT) motor has 60k on it and judders slightly between 1200 and 1800rpm in the higher gears - difficult to explain, it's 'lumpy' and feels like an engine mounting is loose but the problem goes away above 1800 ish rpm - running the engine through the revs out of gear it's quite a definitive judder between those revs.

    Looking at posts on Vectra C it seems it could either be CAM pulleys needing adjusting, injector phasing (needing field remedy 1884) or the good ole EGR!!

    Could any body answer these:
    Has Anybody else got this problem and what did you do to fix it?

    What are the steps needed to change the EGR myself? (i.e. is there a how2 for changing an EGR on a Z30DT V6)

    Thanks

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    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    Has there been an increase in black smoke from the exhaust?
    If not, then its not the EGR valve

    As a 2005, what's the service history like?
    Is it still on ECOFlex, if so what's the indicator showing as the next service?

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    Default V6 CDTi EGR Valves - How can I replace it myself?

    No black smoke at all from the exhaust - the exhausts are clean - it does have the DPF, wouldn't that catch any excess particles - though I've noticed the DPF has been cutting in more frequently just lately, it usually cuts in every 500 miles or so but in one day it cut in twice on a 100 mile journey (a lot of up hill work so a heavy load on the engine)

    I have full service history, it's serviced each year (I do about 11-12k per year) and it was serviced last month - inidicator was showing 1000 miles to next service up to the point it was serviced - is that what you mean?

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    thats what mine was doing for about a month, then had the low water warning light come on.
    anyway took it to the local dealers, front head gasket had gone, and the bit between the two cylinder heads had cracked.
    i'm getting the cambelt, tensioners & water pump done at the same time £650.
    bill est at this time £2500, they are also having problems getting parts, vauxhall are getting them sent from germany, 8 to 10 days.
    really hope you hav'nt got the same problem, mine a 56 plate.

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply Griffonman - sorry to hear you've got a farily hefty bill. I reckon the cause of our issues may be different - I've not lost any coolant at all as I regularly check under the bonnet for such things, I think my head gaskets are okay - any reason why you're having the cambelt and followers replaced at the same time other than convenience whilst the dealers have the head off? I ask as looking around on the forum I did see a link somewhere with someone having similar symptoms (lumpiness at low revs) and they had discussed the cause possibly being cambelt and tensioners......? Thanks

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    Anybody else seen this problem and have any thoughts? I Really want to avoid the usual costly/tedious/inconvenient dealer approach of changing a part at a time and hoping it fixes it.....

    Thanks

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    Vehicle : Opel Signum

    Trim : Sport

    Engine : 3.0 CDTI

    Year : 12/03

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    Is it more noticeable when going up an incline on the motorway?

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    The 'lumpiness' can be felt when I put some load on the engine, i.e. if crusing in this rev range in 5th / 6th it's not noticable, but when I try to accelerate on a level road in 4th/5th/6th you can feel it, it's a difficult to explain, it almost feels as though the timing is wrong and the engine mount is loose (which it isn't), though it fades away at about 1800/1900 rpm. If trying to accelerate hard up a gentle incline in those gears it's really noticible. Before this problem this car could pull cleanly from 1000rpm in 5th / 6th gear - now it just doesn't want to pull from there....

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    Regular Member ph67's Avatar
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    ...another point to add, when driving in this rev. / gear range on main 'A' roads where I am constantly going up hills (i.e. putting a load on the engine) and coasting down hills - such as in Devon - the engine temperature slowly rises from it's usual 85 degrees to about 92ish - if I then adjust my driving and keep the revs above 2000 or so it cools down back to normal - I am so wondering if it's 'timing' related because of the temperature fluctuations - any thoughts?

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    Regular Member m8internet's Avatar
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    Quite difficult to diagnose without examining the engine
    It's time to start phoning around to find a diesel mechanic with experience of that engine

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