Radio Wiring

[fattony]

I've had a quick google but couldn't find what I needed so thought I'd post here before signing up to a corsa / combo forum

The standard radio in the combo van 2006 stopped working a while back and I tested the wiring and thought it was ok so I went with getting an after market radio and accessories and attempted to fit it this morning but it doesn't work either - (this is an old radio I already had and it was working when I last used it)

So I went back to testing the wiring and hopefully someone could tell me if anything obvious jumps out:

There is a square connector block which has a thick brown and red cable:

The red cable seems to be from the battery as it has 11.32vdc at all times
The brown cable I believe is ground and has a resistance of 1.0 ohm (tested to body work)

There are a couple of smaller wires, 1 had about 1.8v and the other about 3.2v these didn't seem to be switched.

For the after market radio I picked up the 12vdc switched from the cigarette lighter but I was ledt with an orange cable which I was unsure where to connect, its marked 'dash light' I couldnt see how not connecting that would stop the radio from working.

As I said I think the voltages are on the correct cables but the radio doesnt switch on or do anything, nor did the standard on and I'm a little lost now.

[Robsey]

The wiring for the Corsa-C or Combo should have the following.

Being a 2006 vehicle, then it should have the quadlock connector

pins 1 to 8 are speaker wires

pin 9 is the green can High wire
pin 10 is the white Can Low wire
pin 11 black is telemute (when shorted to earth)
pin 12 thick brown - chassis earth
pin 13 red/white - aerial feed
pin 14 white - dash speaker wire
pin 15 Red - +12 volt battery supply
pin 16 yellow - dash speaker wire


often orange is used for aerial power feed

Illumination can be taken from the grey/yellow wire at the cigar lighter connector
and as you've said, black from the cigar lighter is ignition live.

Obvious question, is have you checked the fuses in both the fuse panel, and also in the rear of the radio.?

There are a couple of smaller wires, 1 had about 1.8v and the other about 3.2v these didn't seem to be switched.

If these are the green and white pair, then leave these alone, as it sounds like the CAN (often called Canbus) wires, that work at around 2.5 V

[fattony]

Thanks for that - I double checked last night I had the ground all the way to the radio, 12v and ignition feed and I do, just seems very strange as this spare head unit I had was working when I removed it - although it was a couple of years ago.

In order for the radio to work we just need 0v, 12v and 12v switched

pin 12 thick brown - chassis earth - Tested all the way to the back of the radio

pin 15 Red - +12 volt battery supply- Tested AOK

New ignition switch wired from cigarette lighter - Tested AOK

I'm left with the assumption this head unit is fooked along with the standard head unit, but what confuses me is the symptoms are both the same, neither turn on. The only other option I have is trying this head unit in another car or get a 12v psu and see if it will work on the bench

[fattony]

Well I've finally found the problem, there is an issue with the permanent 12v supply as it drops to 0v when I plug the radio in - I can get by temp by linking out the ignition feed but where would I be best to pick up a new 12v supply from (easiest place)

Thanks

[Robsey]

The feed for permanent 12 volts, should come from fuse 1 at the end of the dash panel

You could also check fuses 7, 12, 17, 19 and 26 in the end of the dash, as these can ALL affect the radio, display and instrument panel.