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Thread: Bumper damage !

  1. #1
    Regular Member nigec's Avatar
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    Default Bumper damage !

    Ok the mrs decided to reverse into a parked car the other day reversing out of our drive, yes thoughtful i know ! Anyway after the usual " you never asked me how i was " bearing in mind it was a 2 mile an hour bump from one side of road to other. And the " its only a piece of metal " and " it looks ok from a distance " speech, yeah the same kind of distance when you carnt read the number plate . I took some pics and hopefully you guys can give me some advice on repair treatments and costs. Im in the Barnsley area if anyone can advise. And yes im now in the process of ordering some reverse sensors, as she reverses into a wall the other year in a VW passat, should have bought them on getting this car me thinks !

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    Regular Member ditchp's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra cdti estate

    Trim : Get a

    Engine : Dirty diesel

    Year : 2006

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    look's like it's a job for a body shop imo mate as the paint look's to have broken and flaked off in a couple of places
    Midlands Mod Shop - NFFC.

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    Admin & Merchandise Manager bigmac's Avatar
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    Vehicle : insignia

    Trim : irmscher

    Engine : 2.0 cdti

    Year : 2009

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    TBH you could make that a lot better with machine polisher,i should know as ive done a few things on mine a lot worse than that

    Irmscher Insignia CDTI 130

    MOD'S...Irmscher front spoiler, Irmscher mats, Irmscher door pins, Irmscher rear spoiler, Irmscher grille, Irmscher skirt & exhausts,Irmscher Roof spoiler MOD'S TO COME..Side skirts,Wheels

  4. #4
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    I just sorted out a bigger crack than that in my font bumper. stupid ice... grumble grumble...

    trick is to be very very patient with it.

    1st off,
    clean it thoroughly with some detergent - i used foaming glass cleaner on mine but it's up to you what u use - dont know how strong your laquer is.

    2nd
    pick at it a bit to remove any very loose bits of paint then sand down the whole area with 240 grade wet and dry (use it dry for this) until its got a nice key in it.
    rinse with water every time you sand and make sure it is absolutely dry before continuing.

    3rd, filler.
    mix up some isopon or similar to fill in the cracks where the paint is missing - this is a first coat of filler- no need to do it perfect just make sure it actually fills the holes.
    when dry sand down again, if u put it on thick use some 80 or 120 household decorating sandpaper (but only on the filler dont touch the paint with this as much as you can help it) then use 240 (dry again) to get it as flat to the body as possible. rinse. repeat the process again, using the soft plastic spreader they give you with the filler scrape on some filler and scrape it off as thinly as you can, this will fill the majority of the sandpaper marks and any little holes you missed. when dry rub down with 600 - wet.
    rinse thoroughly.

    4th high build primer
    halfords do a 'filler primer' its yellow and works wonders. mask off the car, there is a nack to this, masking tape a piece of newspaper by one edge so it hangs over the damage, then fold it up, going round the whole area in this manner. the idea is that you dont primer up to a hard line of masking tape, the edge is a folded piece of paper hovering over the paint slightly, ensuring that the primer edge is feathered slightly. use this paint extremely sparingly, do not turn the whole area yellow straight away or it will shrink and crack. get a fairly think coverage but in several layers. wait for 40 mins or so after the last coat to ensure it's dry then remove the masking tape. rub down with wet 600. rub right through the primer until most of it comes off. you will be left with loads of bright yellow scratch marks in the bumper - this is because you have taken the high build primer off of the surface but left it in the cracks/scratches caused by sanding. wash it off thoroughly and whilst still wet run your finger over the surface to feel if the cracks are completely filled. your fingertip is the best tool you can use for this (did you know that a fingertip can detect imperfections as small as 3 microns in size?) repeat this step if you are not happy with it.

    5th grey primer
    gently key this area with 600 - wet, wash and dry. re-do the masking in the same manner sd before but in an area about 1" bigger all round the edge. spray grey primer from about 20cm being careful not to cause runs. give 2 or 3 coats. wait an hour, rub down with 800 - wet.

    6th top coat
    if my eyes are not mistaken this car is metallic or at pearl. this requires a specific sparaying technique.
    mask off again a larger area by 1 inch ensuring the whole area you have masked is keyed at 800-wet.
    spray on the black paint with the nozzel point directly square on to the panel (if you spray at an angle the metalic flakes will fall in that direction and will reflect light back at you from a different angle than the rest of the car and you will be left with a patch that is either lighter or darker than the rest of the car depending on where the sun is)
    be very very patient with the top coat. lots of thin thin thin coats of paint allowing 5 mins between each. do not get closer than 25cm otherwise you will get a dirty run that will move the flakes about too. Always start your spray directed at the newspaper you're masking with and move over the panel and release the spray on the newspaper - this minimizes spitting.
    do not try to get a shiny surface, this is almost impossible to achieve with a spray can full of metalic paint, you will always cause runs doing this. The important thing is getting decent thick coverage of the colour - by repeated thin layers.

    7th laquering
    give the top coat AT LEAST 2 hours to dry and ever-so-gently rub down (surrounding area too) with wet 1200. mask off a much bigger area, 2-3 inches around, ensuring that this area and further is gently sanded with 1200. (this will make it look dull and horrible - do not worry!) spray on enamel laquer (enamel is much harder wearing than acrylic) its in halfords in a blue tin. again do not attempt to get a shiny surface - you might get one but it's not necessary. THICK laquer is the improtant thing, try to feather out to the edge as much as you can - pretend there is no newspaper masking the car. leave overnight to dry.

    8th finishing next day
    rub down the whole area with 1500 wet. be quite forceful where the laquer is thick but be gentle round the edges. when its smooth to the touch, wash off and polish the whole area that looks dull with T-Cut's black scratch remover this will take quite a lot of effort as the laquer will all be keyed up at various stages of 1200 and 1500. after about 15 mins of elbow grease your panel should look pretty much perfect.

    all for the cost of a saturday and ~£30 bargain!

    plus on the upside, now that you've repaired the car she bumped, you can finally get her to repair the tear in your favourite leather jacket

    hope this helps

  5. #5
    Regular Member kentish_bloke's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Insignia

    Trim : Elite

    Engine : 1.8 VVT

    Year : 2009

    Mileage : 42800

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    have you thought about using something like chipsaway or another similar type of service?

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