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Thread: 1.9 CDTI starting problem

  1. #1
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    Default 1.9 CDTI starting problem

    Hi folks,

    first post under my new forum name. for some reason my old one has gone??....ANYWAY.

    need some help on this one if possible.

    car is 2006 150 CDTI and this morning it barely started, in 3 years ownership it has never done this. never had any EM lights on.

    this morning got in car, ignition on, glowplug light came on for the usual 2/3 seconds, began to crank...and crank...and crank etc. after about 30 seconds and a further reheat it caught. but the reheat didn't instantly cure it. had to keep cranking it.

    i drove for 2/3 miles and stopped, tried to start it and it started instantly the few times i tried it.

    i've had a search of the forum and a LOT of good info but looking for a starting point.

    i'm going to check the cranking voltage tonight after work. i get the feeling my battery isn't quite as poppy as it used to be at cranking. what sort of numbers should i see under cranking?

    anything else i can check and report back?

    thanks for help.

    cheers

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    Default

    oh, i should add the car has 45k on it.

    one more thing i forgot to mention but maybe of use. about a 6 weeks ago i noticed when you start the car you can hear the starter motor i think it is keep spinning for a few seconds and then it stops. it does this intermittantly, it hasn't done it for 2/3 weeks though.

    maybe something, maybe nothing, but thought i should mention it.

    cheers

  3. #3
    Regular Member LADmachining's Avatar
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    Does the car drive OK otherwise, no misfires/lag/hesitation or flat spots?

    Battery voltage whilst cranking should be, ideally, as near to 12V as possible. In practice, anything around 10.5 - 11V is OK. Any lower requires further investigation. A much better test of battery health is a load test using a dedicated tester, which can apply a more constant, known load across the battery.

    If the engine is turning over too slowly, it could be taking too long to build up pressure in the fuel rail. A weak high pressure pump could cause this, although it is less likely to be the case with only 45K on the clock.

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    Default

    hi there,

    thanks for response.

    the car drives fine other than this yes. i've never had any issues with the car engine wise until this morning. it was a very severe winter so potentially battery issue is what i thought was all.

    i can borrow a battery load checker from a friend but in mean time i'll try it while cranking and report back tonight.

    i don't think it's turning over quite as fast as it used to, maybe me looking for something but i did notice a few months ago i thought it was taking a tad longer to start. like it used to be 2/3 cranks and went to 4/5. not a huge diff admitedly but at time i thought that it wasn't spinning as fast as it was. maybe a red herring on my part there.

    you think the starter motor keeping spinning after being started intermittantly recently is related to this?

    cheers

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    Regular Member LADmachining's Avatar
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    Does the starter keep spinning even though you have released the ignition key from the start position?

    If it does, this could be the starter solenoid (which is mounted on top of the motor) sticking, and keeping the motor running. It is unlikely to cause the slow starting problem, I would have thought.

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    yes thats the symptoms of the starter motor. i also agree it's unlikely to cause it...BUT....maybe it's the battery running low on juice to disengage it after cranking which is related to this???.................bit of guess work on my part there. it only does this intermittantly and i've not heard it for a few weeks now. infact i've only heard it 2/3x since it started 6 weeks ago.

    it was right after an oil change which is why i heard it.

    cheers

  7. #7
    Regular Member LADmachining's Avatar
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    The solenoid contains a spring which pushes the plunger back to its rest position when the current through the solenoid winding is cut-off by releasing the ignition key. Sometimes, a build up of dust from the clutch, or a mechanical fault, can make the plunger stick.

    The solenoid also controls the main feed into the starter motor from the battery. When it sticks in the operating position, the motor continues to run. Eventually, the spring overcomes whatever is causing it to stick, and allows the parts to return to their normal position.

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    ahhh, ok dokey....excuse my lack of know how on this.

    this is why i buy new cars i've suddenly remembered every 3 years.......:-(

    will report back with voltage as advised, will also check the injector return pipes for leaks/splits. i've had a vectra before with that problem which made it a pig to start aswell. it was like de-ja-vu this morning.

    cheers

  9. #9
    Regular Member LADmachining's Avatar
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    No problem - every day's a school day! ;-)

    The return pipes on the CDTi shouldn't cause the same starting problems as they used to on the older Vectra's - although it never hurts to check....

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    little update-

    battery voltage shows 12.6v sitting idle.

    cranking it goes down to 10.6v then works its way back upto just over 14v once started.

    the leak off pipes are good

    swirl valve bar moving fine

    3rd injector looks fine visually

    the car started fine when i got to it after work, will see how it is in the morning.

    cheers

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