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Thread: Drag links

  1. #1
    Regular Member John35's Avatar
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    Default Drag links

    Well first failure at the Mot today.

    Both drag links have excessive play.

    Has anyone changed the things, Is it difficult??

    I know the price for parts £47.71 for both.

    Should I attempt it or leave it to the experts????

    Not much information online or even where to get them cheap.

    Any help appreciated..

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    Regular Member macdad's Avatar
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    ?Do you mean drop links m8.

  3. #3
    Regular Member John35's Avatar
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    Drag links are what it says on my failure notice. I have worked out its the track rod ends.... I think.

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    Ex Vec-C Admin & Founder GARY3306's Avatar
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    Whoever your tester was, he doesn't know his steering geometry and parts very well. Don't know of any cars that have drag links on. Only off road stuff (Land Rovers/Shoguns etc)
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  5. #5
    Regular Member John35's Avatar
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    Gary,

    Strangely enough he's a specialist in 4x4's. Am i correct in assuming its the track rods end ball joints.

    He wrote ...Nearside front Drag link end ball joint has excessive play (2.2.B.1f)

  6. #6
    Ex Vec-C Admin & Founder GARY3306's Avatar
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    That explains it then lol. Yes, that is what he'll mean. Get someone to sit in the car with the engine running and put a right hand lock on, then reach behind the back of the left hand wheel and put your forefinger on top of the balljoint where it couples to the strut, and your thumb on the bottom of the threads. Now get your assistant to rock the steering in short sharp movements and fast. You should feel the play. Now put the other lock on and check the right hand side.

    Drag links are used on vehicles that have a steering box as opposed to a steering rack (such as 4x4's and commercial vehicles/buses/coaches etc). A simple set-up would be; steering column to steering box, steering box incorporates a Cross Shaft to which attaches a drop arm, drag link connects to the drop arm, other end of drag link to hub, then hubs joined together by the track rod

    EDIT; try a motor factors for the parts mate. Pattern ball joints are ok, just as good as dealer parts and they may even supply Quinten Hazel, which are dealer parts. Motor factors=£15.00 each tops
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    Regular Member John35's Avatar
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    Many thanks Gary. I shall sleep better tonight knowing I bought the right things........

    When to local autoparts before closure so I could start first thing tomorrow. Got Delphi ones for £37 happy with that
    Last edited by John35; 26th March 2010 at 21:06.

  8. #8
    Administrator plasma's Avatar
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    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 150

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 74000

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    And you know where to come if you want them fitting
    Plasma's Tech2 services are now open and able to provide services

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    Ex Vec-C Admin & Founder GARY3306's Avatar
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    Good man Dean

    Quote Originally Posted by John35 View Post
    .......Got Delphi ones for £37 happy with that
    Them will do you well mate. Good make
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  10. #10
    Regular Member John35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plasma View Post
    And you know where to come if you want them fitting
    But you have helped already. I stole this post....

    To remove the track rod end from the arm use a spanner on the 'flats of it to hold it still and undo the lock nut at the end of it half a turn. This will then allow the track rod end to be screwed off. Turn the lock nut back half a turn to put it back in the original position and also count how many complete turns you unscrew the track rod end before it falls off. The new one should turn on very nearly the same amount... Pinch the lock nut tight up against the new track rod end. Doing it this way should be a near enough measurement to the old one, but please get the tracking realigned in case of manufacturing tolerances being different between old and new..

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