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Thread: Hesitant 1.9cdti with engine light

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    Default Hesitant 1.9cdti with engine light

    Hi,

    My 55 plate (facelift) Vectra 1.9cdti 16v (150) starts and runs fine first thing in a morning, or when not used for at least around 3 hours. (its done 70,000 miles.) No problems.

    However, if I drive it for say 20 mins, park up, switch off, then start up again shortly after, it starts hesitating on acceleration, engine light either flickers on, or stays on and goes in to limp mode.

    I thought dirty boost valve sensor and egr may be at fault, along with other dirty coked up intake components - so I thoroughly cleaned out the boost valve sensor, and egr with carb cleaner, including in the holes on intake, and fitted new FIAT restrictor gasket. Checked pin in egr was not stuck, it wasn't and I lubricated it anyway. Then ran a can of 10k de-coke spray through. Also fitted new air filter, and did air box mod (removed bit of plastic).

    After this, it seemed more responsive, when started from cold, but low and behold, the original fault is still there. Grrrrrr!

    The car is mainly used for shortish journeys.

    EML is on, on ign 2 before start up - code(s) stored?

    Has anyone got any ideas - wanted to try and sort the problem, rather than fork out money on code reading before actually spending the money on fixing the cause! Also - if it does look like fault code reading has to be the way - is it best to go to Vauxhall in the long run as they have the tech2, or is any other garage with a fault code reader as good? If I get the car running bad, with the engine light on - will breakdown recovery be able to read the code - therefore not incurring me any cost for the code reading? Appreciate any responses!!

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    sounds like dpf, when light comes on, pull over switch off, restart engine. if prob goes away for a while thats prob the reason. take it for a good run up the motorway for dpf to do a regen.

    thermostat ok, make sure engine is running at right temp when hot 86 to 90 degrees. if not this will stop a regen.

    if it is dpf and it gets too full it will require tech 2 to force a regen. some other garages rather than stealers do have tech 2. take it for a run first, cdti's don't like short runs, trust me been there!

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    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    regarding your dpf read here and you will know if you have one ? fitted to your car!, http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105743

    I can read your codes via op-com, We could arrange something as your not to far away, But I'm doing my inlet manifold tomoz (mon) so gotta see how it goes!, I have plenty of time during the week normally so if you need help with codes unless someone nearer volunteers as I'm Sure there are members near to you!, But my offer is there if needed, there has been a few threads regarding hesitant cdti's similar to yours also they have covered mostly the same as you!, but Ive not followed them to see if any have been cured!, good luck and you can always pm.

    ps a regen can take a constant 40mph for upto 40miles .

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    Thanks for your replies :

    I will have a look tomorrow for the code on the label (0.5 or 1.2) to see if mine has a dpf. Could you tell me :

    What a DPF does?

    Where is it located - does it clean itself or can I clean/unblock it? Do they go faulty/need to be replaced?

    What is a regen?

    I had a new alternator fitted end of last year, and the fault seems to have developed from there. I believe they (the garage not VX) would have had the battery disconnected for that. I havent done any long motorway journeys since - could this have anything to do with it?

    Thanks again!!

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    Regular Member the-wizard's Avatar
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    Vehicle : vectra-c

    Trim : sri

    Engine : cdti

    Year : 2004

    Mileage : 98,000

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    Have you done the third injector mod ?, its in the how section, i would remove the EGR again and do a full strip down including the solenoid even if it looks as if it dont need it, when lubricating the solenoid after just do it with wd 40, that jobs also in the how 2's, Ive found the most anoying part of the EGR is as shown in this pic, the bar thats pointed out in RED passes 'THROUGH' the sheath pointed out in YELLOW, its path is marked with a pink line, that bar gets coked up inside the SHEATH you can only clean part of it by pressing the spring end to the left, BUT I FIND THIS IS always 100% of EGR problems, this gets blocked and therefore knackers up the solenoid. try this first along with re-checking the boost sensor (AGAIN), along with the inj mod, and go from there, obviously if you have a dpf do these first and then give it a good long run to see if it will re-gen (burn off the soot deposits) in your dpf.

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    The pin moves nice and free. The egr was replaced by vx under warranty about 25,000 miles ago.

    The vin sticker on the door pillar says 1.20 - so I take it that I DONT have the DPF? By checking this number - is this specifically representatvive of whether a DPF is present - therefore is this guaranteed I dont have DPF?

    I will try the third injector mod

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