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Thread: Injector seals

  1. #1
    Regular Member suggs1971's Avatar
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    Default Injector seals

    Hi all, well i had my veccy c 2.0 dti booked in with a garage this friday to replace the injector seals, been trying for a few weeks to get a quote for doing the job but all they said was they charge £20.00 an hour and didnt know how long it would take them. I did some research for the garage including the time it takes, and what the job entails anyway they've come back and said it would take them 5 hours to do so my wifey rang a local garage at marske who said they have changed the injector seals on a dti engine and quoted me £45.00 + vat so booked in with them on monday. Ive already bought the gaskets/ seals etc so not a bad price.

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    Admin & Merchandise Manager bigmac's Avatar
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    Vehicle : insignia

    Trim : irmscher

    Engine : 2.0 cdti

    Year : 2009

    Default

    I checked today at my local vauxhall and they quoted me £456 to do it parts cost a few pounds but they said its a 5hr job

    Irmscher Insignia CDTI 130

    MOD'S...Irmscher front spoiler, Irmscher mats, Irmscher door pins, Irmscher rear spoiler, Irmscher grille, Irmscher skirt & exhausts,Irmscher Roof spoiler MOD'S TO COME..Side skirts,Wheels

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    Regular Member suggs1971's Avatar
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    I looked on autodata and it said 3.8 hours so was thinking 3 hours max with the info i found on the net , when i looked in the haynes manual it looks a very involved job but i followed a link from another forum which fair enough was for a veccy b 2.0 dti but the same set up apart from a mechanical egr valve on the veccy b and the job seemed easier, a lot less taking off parts than it says in the haynes manual.

  4. #4
    Regular Member Aikon58's Avatar
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    Vehicle : shatch- sports hatch

    Trim : cheap plastics

    Engine : metal

    Year : 1901

    Mileage : 999

    Default

    Remove the metal injector pipes.
    Take off the top part of the inlet manifold.
    Take off the rocker cover.
    Line up the vacuum pump end of the cam,so the drive slot for the vac pump is facing vertical.
    Remove the camshaft clamps,this will give you just enough clearance,so you don't need to touch the timing.
    remove the torx bolt holding down the injector bridge to the head.
    remove the top neoprene injector seal,and replace with a new one.
    Replace the injector bridge o ring seal,the one that sits in the head.
    Replace injector bridge,i don't torque the torx bolt,i just nip them up enough,so as not to squash and distort the injector seal,but tight enough not to leak.
    replace rocker cover.
    replace top inlet cover.
    Replace metal injector pipes,but leave the top union nuts slightly loose,so you can bleed up the injection system.
    Put new leak off pipes on.
    Crank the engine over until you get diesel coming from the top union nuts and tighten the nuts up.
    I may have missed some small details,and this may not be the correct way of doing it,but it saves time and money,you don't even need to get a new metal gasket for the top inlet cover,as its reusable.

  5. #5
    Regular Member suggs1971's Avatar
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    Default

    Yeah thats one of the ways ive read about how to do the job thats why when i got told 5 hours to do the job i was shocked. I did loads of research via this forum and other ones, some people said you can put the cam on an angle to get at the seals or remove the cam keeping the chain on the sprocket and suspending the sprocket to keep everything timed up, i gave this info to the original garage, sounds like they didnt want the job.

  6. #6
    Regular Member Aikon58's Avatar
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    Vehicle : shatch- sports hatch

    Trim : cheap plastics

    Engine : metal

    Year : 1901

    Mileage : 999

    Default

    Thats the way i do them,i did them that way,even before seeing any how2 for it,but the how2 tells you to remove the cam sprocket,i do them fine with out going to so much effort,just try not to pinch the neoprene injector seal when pushing the injector bridge back in under the cam.

  7. #7
    Regular Member suggs1971's Avatar
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    Default

    Cheers for the info, im feeling a lot happier now because the garage thats gonna do the job has done it before whereas the first garage hasnt. Did you replace the seals on your car, what symptoms did you have?

  8. #8
    Admin plasma's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 150

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 74000

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by suggs1971 View Post
    Yeah thats one of the ways ive read about how to do the job thats why when i got told 5 hours to do the job i was shocked. I did loads of research via this forum and other ones, some people said you can put the cam on an angle to get at the seals or remove the cam keeping the chain on the sprocket and suspending the sprocket to keep everything timed up, i gave this info to the original garage, sounds like they didnt want the job.

    Lol, someones been reading vectra-sport lol, read that bit of hanging the sprocket tensioned via a bungee cord to the bonnet on there... Defo dont let them just loosen the camshaft and raise it up and they WILL pinch the seals when trying to slide them under the cam.
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  9. #9
    Regular Member suggs1971's Avatar
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    Default

    Cheers thanks for that, only joking any info is appreciated. When i drop the car off on monday im gonna ask the mechanic whos doing the job how hes gonna do it cos i dont want him tightening down the crossover nozzles and knacking the seals. At least getting the seals done hopefully the symptons i have at the moment with my veccy will go and if they reappear in a short time i'll know the job wasnt done right.

  10. #10
    Admin plasma's Avatar
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    Vehicle : Vectra

    Trim : SRi

    Engine : 150

    Year : 05

    Mileage : 74000

    Default

    Diesel specialist did mine, but approx 1 yr later same symptons came back just after I sold the car to someone, Vx guy I know who carried out the repair for new owner said they were pinched! More like oval he said then round!
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