3.2 V6 Thermostat
Following on from this thread i ended up changing my thermostat at the weekend and thought i'd clear up a few misconceptions:-
1) The thermostat has 2 bolts holding it to the block, there is a third bolt on the front of the block that holds the oil dip stick neck, engine 'lifting' point and the solid pipe that runs from the thermostat housing to rubber pipe at front of engine - this bolt has to be removed and is a b'stard
2) Lower divider has to be removed, 12 bolts in total, needs to re-installed in a sequence working diagonally from the center and tightened to 20Nm - gaskets appear moulded in not 'loose'
3) Stat housing is the same as found in 'X' and 'Y' V6 engines HOWEVER the one i had was 'thinner' at the bolt positions so the bolts were too long, so i just swapped the 'guts' over into the old housing - its just a twist fit
4) Thermostat is on the offside of engine directly behind the timing belt back cover NOT on the gearbox side (nearside)
5) Cambelt DOESNOT have to be removed to change the stat
6) When removing the plenum you do not need to take the 'top cover' off first
It does make a differnce to the running temp. Over the last few weeks my daily trip into London it would get to just under 80 on the 'fast moving' bit and then it 90 in traffic but rapidly cool to just under 80 when moving again.
This morning with an outside temp of -2ish it hit 90 in 3 miles then stayed at a steady 87ish even in traffic. Economy seems to have improved over the 15 mile trip.
I would say its a ***** of a job and wouldn't want to do it again!!!!
However if anyone needs some pointers i'll help where i can
I'm planning to change my thermostat in a few months.
Did you remove the whole plenum (instead of just moving it away over the back bank)? If yes, how did you remove all the pipes (brake servo vacuum line, fuel lines) from the plenum? And last, how long did it take to do the thermostat change?
I lifted the plenum turned it 90 degrees and proped it on throttle body end on rear bank against windscreen/ bonnet. All the pipes for breathers are just unclipped and slid off, un-clip the electrical bits, servo pipe is a push button on top and a gentle tug.
You can move and twist the plenum with fuel lines still attached to the fuel fuel rail
As you start to strip it out its obvious how it all pops apart.
I personally found it easier with it out the way but you might not need to.
I started around 11am, had stripped and drained down to get to stat in about 30-40 mins, than spent about hour and half getting the stat out, mainly due to the solid pipe being a *****. Had it up and running and topping up water/ antifreeze by around half 2, had all tools packed up and it was running to temp by 3pm so based on that about 4 hours work, however now i know i think it could be done quite easily in 2- 2 1/2 hours.
12th March 2010, 10:03
Thanks for good info!
Could you give some tips how you managed to strip the ***** solid pipe?
12th March 2010, 12:26
Good old GM V6 engine design....lol. I had a Rover turbo about 10 years ago, and for some reason thermostats would only last about 8 months, but genuine Rover ones only cost £8 and took 15 minutes to replace. The good old days.....lol
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12th March 2010, 12:43
I think mine needs doing too. Sounds like a pain in the **** of a job.
2003 Vauxhall Vectra GSi 3.2 V6
13th March 2010, 22:24
Thanks for the tips. I'm doing mine soon but I've also bought a new coolant pipe which should hopefully make it bit easier as I can remove thermostat with the pipe still attached and just remove the top rubber hose.
Another tip too - while you have the plenum off it's worth removing the engine breather housing too (just to the side/rear of the plenum) and giving it a good clean out.
14th March 2010, 10:00
14th March 2010, 10:02
Originally Posted by dae36
Is this possible as i tried for about 2 hours?
14th March 2010, 21:25
The pipe is just a push fit into the thermostat housing - there are two o rings inside that seal it!
Originally Posted by andymagee1982