Eml 2.2dti

[Gortreck]

Hi Folks,

I have an intermittent EML problem, it drops into limp home mode, and i can restart and clear it if i start in a lower gear so the revs are above the 2.5k. It can then stay off for ages or come back on relatively quickly.

I have a feeling its something like Boost stuff or maybe even the EGR valve. I want to clean it, just need to get myself the tools together.

However, when i took my car in to the garage to have the wheel bearing done, i asked if they would read the codes and let me know what they said they were. He advised me when i picked the car up that the port that the code reader plugs into is dead and asked if i had a blown fuse or something? He didnt have time to investigate it as the time for the job elapsed. Has anyone else heard of the socket being dead and know of any causes? Also have an idea as to what my EML problem could be? The car goes into limp home mode when under load. For example, overtaking in a high gear at lower revs kind of thing.

Cheers

Tony

[James24]

You are probably thinking along the right lines here. Even without knowing the fault code, it's worth checking the air pipes and vacuum pipes under the bonnet - the smallest hole/split/crack can cause these symptoms. If/once these are OK you then need the fault code before you start randomly cleaning and replacing things.

As for the diagnostic socket, make sure the garage has pushed the connector on all the way. Dealers are generally OK with this as they do it a lot on the Vectra C, but an independent garage may not realise that it can be a bit tricky - it's always worth a good wiggle and a second go to be sure that the connector is pushed all the way on to the socket. If it was a dealer who read your codes then it's more likely to be another problem but it's definitely worth another go trying to read the codes if it was an independent.

If there's definitely a problem with the diagnostic socket, then it does have a fuse - F11 (7.5A) in the passenger compartment fusebox. You could always give this a quick check now to rule it in or out...

[Gortreck]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. I now just need to sort myself out the tools to take off the EGR valve and clean that using the how to, and then if that doesnt fix it, maybe take a look at trying to clean the boost sensor too.

An update to the fault though, If i restart while running the car at speed, but start the engine in a gear which has the car above 2500 rpm and then accelerate in that gear to say about 4k, then change and keep the car above 2500 rpm it generally keeps it going ok, I was then able to complete my full journey without the EML light coming on again.

It was an independant garage that tried to read the codes so they may not have put the plug on properly as you say, but i will check that fuse anyway, just a continuity test with a simple voltmeter isnt it?

Thanks
Tony

[James24]

Hi,

Thanks for the reply. I now just need to sort myself out the tools to take off the EGR valve and clean that using the how to, and then if that doesnt fix it, maybe take a look at trying to clean the boost sensor too.

An update to the fault though, If i restart while running the car at speed, but start the engine in a gear which has the car above 2500 rpm and then accelerate in that gear to say about 4k, then change and keep the car above 2500 rpm it generally keeps it going ok, I was then able to complete my full journey without the EML light coming on again.

It was an independant garage that tried to read the codes so they may not have put the plug on properly as you say, but i will check that fuse anyway, just a continuity test with a simple voltmeter isnt it?

Thanks
Tony

Uou can see the fusible link running between the 2 legs of the fuse, so it's usually easy to spot a fuse that's blown.

You can also continuity test the fuse, or just replace it with a new one.