Wind noise from front window

[Duncan]

No, I haven't been eating beans!!

Since having my tints done I've got some very noticeable wind noise from my front drivers window - the edge nearest the B pillar.

It's obviously down to the window having been removed to apply the tints. I haven't rang the tinters as they may just say it's the way the window goes back in again. Also, it's a bit of a distance so I can do without the hassle.

I've found that if I give the elctric window button a very quick press just to bring the window down a fraction, it stops the noise - so it's definitely something to do with the way the window is sitting.

Before I start to remove the door card and my (new! ) vapour barrier (at least I can fit a new one. I've got plenty of the stuff left) - can anyone tell me exactly what is going to be the area I need to look at.

Will it be the thing the glass is sat on. Will it be some other guides/stops? It looks to me like the edge of the glass nearest the B pillar is being pushed up more than the other end, causing it to sit askew and introduce a gap.

I'm happy to take off the door card and mess around with the guides/glass etc. Just wanted to see if anyone could point me in the right directin so I'm off to a better start.

I'll have a look in TIS meanwhile - that may help me suss out anything.

Thanks

D

[ed taylor]

This might sound stipid, but I found with mine when I shut the window fully, then press the shut button again the window goes up just a litle futher, the any wind noise on mine stops, I think it might be some thing to do with the auto window "open and close", might be worth you giving it a try Duncan, it might work.....

[Duncan]

I've already tried that Ed - pressing the up button again. Doesn't do anything. But a quick stab on the down button brings the window down enough to stop it.

What I'm not sure is if it is the edge of the window nearer the windscreen not going up far enough, or the edge nearest the B pillar going up too far - if you see what I mean.

Could be the something on the windscreen edge is sticking and needs lubricated, or a stop guide on the B pillar edge needs adjusting? I don't know!

Thanks for you suggestion anyway.

D

[ed taylor]

I understand what you mean now, in other words the window my be refitted " ****-eyed", I would have thought that with the power of the window motor it would have "squared" uo the window, Have you tried spraying some silicone spray down the lenght of the wondow runners, I do this on a regular basis as the runners become dry, and it makes the windows go up and down easier.
ps you say that when you bring the window dow a little it stops the noise, maybe the window is going up at an angle when it is fully closed and then alowing the wind to whistle through, is there any thing obstrusting the windo at the top of the rubber? so the window is shut at an angle..

[Duncan]

That's exactly it Ed- that's what I think is happening (for whatever reason). The glass is ending up askew in the frame - either by sticking on one side or the other being pushed up too far.

I think some silicone spray wouldn't do any harm. May get some from Halfrauds today. I did look for obstructions in the frame, but will double check.

Thanks

D

[ed taylor]

Any sort of dash board cleaner will do furniture polish is just as good, as long as the spray has some form of lubricant in it, WD40 should be ok too, be carefull not to over do it as it can get on to the glass, but then just clean it off the glass.

[Robbieben]

I would presume that the window was removed from the seat rail that it sits on to do the tint work, the window fits into the seat rail and has a semi setting epoxy to hold it in place, if too much of the epoxy has been squeezed below the glass into the rail the glass won't quite sit straight. There should be no epoxy below the glass in the rail.

Only real answer is to remove glass from rail and clean out rail completely and ensure only the two facing surfaces have epoxy on them. HTH

[Duncan]

Thanks Robbie. I think I'll be removing the door card and moisture barrier then to have a look! See if I can see what's going on.

D

[Robbieben]

Bostick do a good semi setting flxible silicone type sealant, mainly aimed at bathroom type uses, the outer surface forms a crust but the underneath remains liquid, if seal is broken it re-seals itself.
I have used it before to re-fit glass to doors and it works a treat, usually from B&Q

[Duncan]

Cheers. Just trying to work out exactly what you meant in your earlier post by "Only real answer is to remove glass from rail and clean out rail completely and ensure only the two facing surfaces have epoxy on them"

It was the two facing surfaces I didn't follow (reading throught it again). Did you mean there should be a bead of the resin either side of the glass along the guide rail - but none actually under the glass.

D