User Tag List

Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: 1.9cdti 150 buying advice?

  1. #1
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Derby
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default 1.9cdti 150 buying advice?

    I'm in the market for a Vectra SRI 150 cdti Estate, but need some advice on trying to avoid the common problems that seem to be assoiciated with this model. From this forum I now know to buy a >07 model as they seem to a little more reliable, and to start the car with the clutch in to save the DMF (which for some reason I did anyway?!). I know this model has problems with the EGR and 'swirl pots(?!!)'. How can spot if a car I'm looking at may have these problems, and is there anything I can do to avoid the probs when I own the car?
    Cheers, Darren.

  2. #2
    Regular Member Mark0's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Scotland
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    For the swirl bar, open bonnet, take off the plastic engine cover (and rubber things, put them back on the cover before placing cover back on)
    Then look in towards the rear of the engine where the manifold is. There should be a small linkage bar with this sort of shape ---\_/----\_/----\_/----\_/--- with small black round things. If it is mounted to the manifold, the swirls are ok, but check for them being really greasy, the 3rd one especially.

    actually, heres a thread.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...to#post1148306

    Just make sure you do your usual checks. To see how good the SMF is, take the car for a wee test drive, when the engine is warm, depress the clutch slowly and listen for a rough rattling sound kinda like a release bearing, but louder. If it isn't there, the DMF should be in good health. Mine rattles like a bag of nails and is very noticeable. Another way to tell is if the car really shudders and judders when accelerating in 5th or 6th between 1000-1500rpm. Mine shakes most at about 1300-1400rpm.

    Oh, and EGR, it's at the top right hand side of the engine on a 150ps model, not sure about the 120. It's kinda hard to check without taking it off. Just have a look and see how old it looks, metal wise. Mine is quite shiny which suggests it was recently replaced before I got the car.

    Actually, just found another thread showing where they are and what they look like....

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showpo...20&postcount=8

  3. #3
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    UK
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    In my opinion the 120bhp engine is more reliable and by no means underpowered but everybody will have different experiences. I'm a taxi driver and have done 170,000 in my 150 elite estate and it's had it's fair share of problems. Our drivers using 120 vectras seem to have less issues. However I would happly buy another 150 as most modern diesels have their own issues and it's better the devil you know IMO.

    If you test drive a 150 and it seems very under powered below 2000rpm it could be an egr problem but it's not too much of an issue. They are quite easy to clean (search for the how too) or refurbished one come up quite cheap on eBay, I paid £35. Also you can fit a blanking plate (search for fiat egr blanking plate), this will help extend the life of the egr.

    The swirl valve problem can be more expensive, mine was fixed under warrenty luckily. I'm not sure how to check if it's on it's way out but it's worth checking the rod is connected and moving freely. If you look down behind the glow plugs you'll see a rod on top of the inlet manifold with four black plastic cups. All four should move together when you start the engine and turn it off, the 3rd from the left controls the other 3. If there is alot of crud built up they can pop off, it's worth keeping this area clean and I'm sure the amount of much the egr let's back in does not help.

    The DPF in the exhaust can block up (if one is fitted, I think a 2007 estate will have one). This can be an expensive fix, think £1200ish but there are cheaper ways round it but this involves gutting the filter which may increase emissions.

    Your right about the DMF, I've not had this problem as mine is an auto but two of our drivers have had it go. One at 50k on a 57reg and the other at 60k on a 56reg, both fix under warrenty.

    Good luck with your search, hope you find one you like.

  4. #4
    Regular Member Maverick's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Leicester
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Go for the 150, there nowt wrong with them, just make sure you get one with full service history and from a VX dealer.

  5. #5
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Derby
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mark0 View Post
    For the swirl bar, open bonnet, take off the plastic engine cover (and rubber things, put them back on the cover before placing cover back on)
    Then look in towards the rear of the engine where the manifold is. There should be a small linkage bar with this sort of shape ---\_/----\_/----\_/----\_/--- with small black round things. If it is mounted to the manifold, the swirls are ok, but check for them being really greasy, the 3rd one especially.

    actually, heres a thread.

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showth...to#post1148306

    Just make sure you do your usual checks. To see how good the SMF is, take the car for a wee test drive, when the engine is warm, depress the clutch slowly and listen for a rough rattling sound kinda like a release bearing, but louder. If it isn't there, the DMF should be in good health. Mine rattles like a bag of nails and is very noticeable. Another way to tell is if the car really shudders and judders when accelerating in 5th or 6th between 1000-1500rpm. Mine shakes most at about 1300-1400rpm.

    Oh, and EGR, it's at the top right hand side of the engine on a 150ps model, not sure about the 120. It's kinda hard to check without taking it off. Just have a look and see how old it looks, metal wise. Mine is quite shiny which suggests it was recently replaced before I got the car.

    Actually, just found another thread showing where they are and what they look like....

    http://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showpo...20&postcount=8
    Excellent, just what I needed. You're a star....

  6. #6
    Regular Member
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Yorkshire
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    I had a 150 CDTi and had a nightmare. The DMF went first but was replaced under warranty. This didnt effect performance but did make a horrible rattle. The EGR went whilst I was overtaking a car putting my SRI into 'limp-mode' (which basically restricts performance. This again was replaced under warranty but I was away at the time so had to get the train home.
    The swirl valve (swirl pots) went after the warranty expired and cost me £951 to repalce as the whole inlet manifold should be changed.
    What I found out through this forum is that the EGR and Swirl Valve seem to affect each other so when the EGR went, the swirl valve should have been changed aswell (due to them clogging).

    The final nail in my veccys coffin was when the injectors started playing up. I managed to clear these temporaraly by giving the car a good hard blast then part ex'ing it.

    I now have a veccy 2.0T as I loved the car but got put off by the common problems experienced by the users of this forum who also had the CDTi.

    If you get one, get it fully checked. Whilst the car was running, it was very good and the power of the 150 is very impressive.

    Hope this helps

  7. #7
    Regular Member andy.l's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Wirral / ellesmere port
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : insignia tourer

    Trim : elite

    Engine : 2.0 cdti 160

    Year : 2011

    Default

    i dont wanna scare you but i have a 06 zaffy 1.9cdti 150 and since march
    09 its had replaced as follows-


    new gearbox,clutch,flywheel.turbo,egr valve and rcently a new alternator


    but when i got it it had 114k on clock and now its just turned 130k


    but then the mileage doesnt matter these days as anything can happen
    at anytime so if it doesnt come with a decent warranty then i wouldnt
    have another one of these diesel engines neither a high mileage car again.




  8. #8
    Regular Member Celes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Slovenia, Koper
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats

    Vehicle : Opel Signum

    Trim : Sport

    Engine : 3.0 CDTI

    Year : 12/03

    Default


  9. #9
    Full Member Big Sig's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Is a very naughty boy
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Buy a petrol z-net???
    Now I need a turbo to keep up!

  10. #10
    Regular Member dawasdave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Norfolk
    Problems Posted
    0
    Problems Solved
    0
    Best Answers
    0
    Good Answers
    0
    Post Thanks / Like
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Tagged
    0 Thread(s)
    Vehicle InfoStats





    Default

    Yea as said buy a z20net .. Lol

    mind you after readind this thread I bet you are rather put of the cdti lol.. There not all bad.. I had one in my last car (astra) and it was a great car and I had none of the above problems in two years of ownership ...

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Buying Advice
    By keith1983 in forum Vectra C / Signum Car Chat
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 8th November 2011, 11:34
  2. buying advice 1.9cdti 150 auto
    By robsriturbo in forum Vectra C / Signum Car Chat
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 18th December 2010, 21:10
  3. Thinking of Buying a Vectra! 2.2 Petrol or 1.9cdti??
    By countduckula55 in forum Vectra C / Signum Car Chat
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 11th November 2010, 17:49
  4. 2.0T buying advice
    By pricey in forum Petrol Engine related
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 14th August 2007, 15:20
  5. a bit of advice when buying a car
    By pogo in forum General Chat
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 21st June 2007, 09:48

Visitors found this page by searching for:

Nobody landed on this page from a search engine, yet!

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •